Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Sugar Gliders: Tiny Acrobats

In the last decade or so, the popularity of sugar gliders as pets has grown considerably. The small size of these furry acrobats, their personalities, their plush fur, their large eyes, their agility and their ability to bond closely with humans have attracted legions of new sugar glider devotees.
What is a sugar glider and where did they originally come from? Sugar gliders are small marsupials and members of the possum family. They are found in Australia, Tasmania, Indonesia, and New Guinea. Their scientific name is petaurus breviceps. Most sugar gliders these days are captive-bred and not wild-caught.

Like their larger marsupial cousins, kangaroos sugar gliders have a pouch where their infants grow and develop. Their young are called "joeys, " as are the young of kangaroos. You may come across the term OOP while researching sugar gliders on the internet. OOP means "out-of-pouch" and it indicates how long the joey has been completely out of his mother's pouch. Joeys are ready to go to a new home at approximately 8 weeks OOP.

Sugar gliders are approximately chipmunk-sized, measuring about 9 to 12 inches long (including their long tail), and they weigh about 3 to 6 ounces as adults. Their normal color is steel gray to brownish with a black stripe down the back, but selective breeding in captivity has brought out other color variations, including albinos. In captivity, they can live as long as 15 years, although 8 to 12 years is more usual.

One of the most distinguishing features of sugar gliders is a thin membrane, called a patagium, that stretches between their front and rear legs, much like the more familiar flying squirrels of North America. This is what allows them to glide from tree to tree. When they glide, the skin spreads out, making sugar gliders look like furry kites! When the sugar glider is sitting, the patagium looks like ruffled furry skin, shaped somewhat like the edge of lasagna noodles.

Their tail is not prehensile, unlike their more familiar American opossum cousins. That means that sugar gliders cannot grasp, grip and hang from their tails. Instead, the tail is used as a balancing and stabilizing tool, especially while gliding.

Sugar gliders are nocturnal, which means they are active at night. They have very large (relative to their size) eyes, which help them see at night. They also have large ears, an obvious benefit to an animal who is both preyed-upon and a predator. Those big ears allow them to hear even the smallest sound.

Sugar gliders have fixed teeth, incisors, molars, and premolars. You should not clean your sugar glider’s teeth. Unlike some species, such as guinea pigs, their teeth do not continue to grow once mature. If a tooth falls out, it is not replaced. Wild gliders chew on branches and in the process, clean their teeth. Gliders in cages will also chew on branches.

Sugar gliders have 5 toes on their front feet. Each toe ends with a very sharp claw that helps them land when they glide. Those claws also make gliders very agile climbers. Their hind feet also have 5 toes, but one of them is an enlarged, clawless opposable toe. An opposable toe means that they can use that toe to grip things, much as humans' opposable thumbs allow us to do the same.
Why are they called "sugar gliders"? In the wild, sugar gliders eat, as part of their diet, manna (a crusty sugar left where sap flowed from a tree trunk or branch) and honeydew (an excess sugar produced by sap-sucking insects). In captivity, sugar gliders have a fondness for sweet foods. They will eat too many sweets if allowed, so sweet foods must be rationed.

In the wild, sugar gliders nest in holes of trees in colonies of 7 to 15 members and have been observed gliding as far as 300 feet! The ability to glide is one of the most amazing features of sugar gliders, and one of the things that makes them such special pets. Teaching your pet sugar glider to glide to you is very rewarding!

Sugar gliders are social animals, which means they live in groups. They get along with and love the company other sugar gliders, and many sugar glider owners choose to have more than one glider. It is their social nature that allows them to develop strong bonds with their human owners. But it is also that social nature that creates their need for attention from their owners. Sugar gliders are not the kind of pet that can be left for long periods of time without any attention from their owners. The more time you spend with your sugar glider, the more he will become bonded with you.

Many sugar glider owners bond with their new gliders by carrying them around in a bonding pouch for several hours a day while the glider sleeps. Sugar gliders are sometimes called "pocket pets" because they will often curl up in your pocket and go to sleep!

Diet and housing are perhaps the two most important factors in deciding whether a sugar glider
is the right pet for you. Sugar gliders require a varied diet consisting of a protein source (meat, insects, etc . ), a fruit and/or vegetable source, and a supplement of calcium. There are commercial sugar glider dry and soft-pellet foods available, but it is not recommended that you feed your sugar glider a diet consisting solely of these commercial foods. Sugar gliders require fresh food sources in addition to any commercial food. Calcium is also crucial to their diet, and there are a number of products on the market that will allow you to easily add calcium to your sugar glider’s diet.

Sugar gliders require as tall a cage as possible. They feel safer up high because they are normally tree-dwellers. 30 inches tall is usually the bare minimum for a sugar glider cage, but most breeders and sugar glider experts recommend cages 4 feet tall or higher. Many sugar glider owners buy flight cages designed for finches and other small birds. The flight cages are tall enough and roomy enough for a sugar glider. It is also recommended that sugar glider owners permit their gliders supervised play time in a glider-safe room for at least several hours a day.

Although sugar gliders are loving, affectionate and adorable, it is recommended that an adult closely supervise any young children around sugar gliders.

The cost of a sugar glider is approximately $150 to $250. If the glider must be shipped to you via airplane, there will be an additional cost. Certain desirable color variations can raise the price of a sugar glider considerably.


 



Pedegru - The Social Network for Pet Owners and Animal Professionals

Monday, July 23, 2012

Of Pets and Poisons

Many of our lovely garden plants are poisonous to children, but children don’t usually go into the garden intending to eat them! We can warn our children away from pretty berries and they will (usually) take notice. But what about our pets? Some plants are absolutely toxic to cats and dogs

For instance, the bulbs or rhizomes of lilliums, iris, lily of the valley and agapanthus are lethal to cats. The poison hidden away in these otherwise delightful plants will destroy your cat’s kidneys completely, should they be ingested. While this sounds like bad news, it’s not very likely that pussycat will dig up the plants especially to have a chew at the roots. On the other hand, some cats love to chew at anything, so if you dig the plants up for any reason just be aware of the problem.

There are also a range of plants that are extremely poisonous to dogs. These are called the dogbanes because they are the bane, or nemesis of dogs. In this case, it is the sap that is the problem; so if you have a mischievous puppy or dog that likes to chew plants in your garden, beware!

Many of the dogbane family come from the tropics, flower for long periods and have sweet perfumes. They include such diverse plants as the frangipanni, the mandevilla group, eg, Brazilian jasmine, oleanders, wintersweet and the vinca family, including the periwinkle. While toxic to dogs, this last plant is saved from a bad reputation by being used in the treatment of diabetes and some cancers.

Garden poisons can also adversely affect your pets. Snail bait can kill a dog or cat very quickly (and painfully) if enough is eaten. It should be placed under something heavy such as rocks, logs or pot plants. Another idea is to use a piece of metal pipe, so long as it is long and narrow enough to exclude animals’ paws and noses. This is a good idea for positioning rat poison, too.

Always keep pets and children off lawns that have been sprayed with weedkillers until the spray has dried and preferably for twenty-four hours afterwards.

Symptoms of poisoning in dogs and cats include stumbling, salivating, vomiting or having seizures, or other unusual behaviours. Take the suspect product or plant with you when you go to the vet.

The shellback or paralysis tick, in those areas affected by this little pest, can also cause some of the above symptoms. It is smaller than the bottle ticks that have a metallic blue colour when full of blood, and larger than the tiny grass tick, which causes nothing more than irritation and itch. If you are unfortunate enough to find one on your pet, it will have a wrinkled back, rather like a shell. Often the first symptom you will notice is that your pet has difficulty walking, for the back legs quickly become paralyzed. These days, an injection will save your pet’s life so long as you get it quickly enough. In the old days, coffee essence was used to stimulate the heart until the animal recovered. But that didn’t always work.

It is wise to keep a tick collar on your dog or cat, or use a pour-on tickicide – poisonous to ticks, but not to our canine and feline friends.




How to Care for Ferrets : How Ferrets Interact With Other Pets

Sunday, July 8, 2012

How to Make a Smooth Move with your Pet - Moving with Exotic Pets

A lot is written how to move with dogs, cats or even fish. But what if your beloved ones are far more exotic and unusual than other people's pets, don't they need some special and accordingly unusual care during the move? If you are the lucky owner of, say, a snake or a hamster here are few suggestion for your smooth with them:

The first thing to remember when moving reptiles is to keep them moist. It can be achieved by putting a damp blanket inside a moving container for your pet. Reptiles can be packed in boxes, venomous snakes should be be double boxed. Make holes in boxes to maintain good ventilation during the move. Make the inside of the box soft for your pet by putting their foam panels, crumpled paper and pieces of cloth. Mark the box with both common and scientific names of your reptile. Be sure to write "live cargo", "this side up" and "keep at room temperature ( 70-75F)" if you'll be shipping your pet. The main danger of shipping your pet reptile is changes of temperature; a reptile can't survive in too cold or too hot surroundings and it's hardly avoidable during the move.

One of the convenient ways to move your reptile long distance is by overnight postal service, though USPS won't guarantee live delivery; they might be only liable if the box in which you were moving your pet would have been damaged, but if your beloved one baked or freezed to death you would get nothing. This method of shipping is very common for moving turtles in cushioned, insolated boxes with air holes. Nowadays, moving reptiles by airlines has become difficult due to people who were careless for shipping regulations and caused numerous accidents with their pets. Delta Dash (Delta Airline's priority cargo service) and American Airline's Priority Parcel service used to accept reptiles properly packed and clearly labelled. When moving your reptile by car don't leave it alone overnight, always take it into motel where you'll be stopping, if its pet friendly, of course , to soak your pet in a bath.

When moving small mammals like mice, gerbils, guinea pigs and hamsters, it's better to use their normal container and move them in your car. Take the water and food out of their container and use rest areas to water and feed your pets. Maintain comfortable temperature - don't park the car in the sunlight; remember whatever temperature is comfortable for you is comfortable for your beloved ones.

You also can ship your exotic pets abroad, provided they are not listed in CITES. You will need to fill out US Fish

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Pet Sitting - Start Your Own Business

Almost everyone sooner or later dreams of starting a home based business to make some extra money, or to be able to work part time. The one thing that stops most folks from acheiving this goal, is money. They just don't have the financial stability to either borrow the money needed or are not sure they can pay it back. There is one business that anyone can start with no upfront money needed, all that is required is patience and kindness, this is the business of Pet Sitting.

In the U. S. over 70% of all homes contain at least one pet, there are over 65 million dogs and 77 million cats, and in 2005 American's spent over $14 billion on their pets. All of these pets need care and treatment, and at many times throughout the year each pet has to be left unattended a large amount of the time. During these times, a pets owner often needs the services of a ' Pet Sitter '.

There are two ways you can operate your own pet sitting business, if you own your own residence, you can watch pets inside your home, having the pet owners drop off their pets at your residence. This puts you more at ease, and you have more time to devote directly to your home duties as well as the pet sitting business, since you don't have to spend time traveling to the pet owners residence. Just make sure you have proper areas sit up for the pets that will be arriving, they must not interact with your own pets, as this can cause fights, unwanted breeding and the spreading of fleas and diseases. Plus pets dropped off at your residence will be scared because they will be in unfamiliar surroundings.

You may wish to stay at the owners residence and watch the pets while they are not home, like a babysitter. This has benefits and disadvantages as well. For one thing you will be traveling and will have to spend a great deal of time away from your own residence and money on gasoline. You may also break or damage something in the pet owners home, causing trouble for you. Or you may find yourself in a hostile environment, due to fighting between the pet's owners, or other household members. Staying in someone elses residence could also get you accused of stealing something, even though you didn't, but a babysitter faces these same obsticles also. The benefits of watching the pets in the owners home is you will have a lot less chance of exposing your own pets to diseases and unwanted breeding and fights, and the pets you are sitting will be calm and relaxed since they are being left in their familiar environment.

Either method of pet sitting you choose has it's advantages and disadvantage, so you must carefully choose which is better for you. Just make sure that whatever type of service you choose, that you think of the job as carefuly as a babysitter would. Think of the pet as a small child, because a lot of pet owners love their pets as if they are children.

Make sure you have some knowledge of the pets you will be sitting, for instance read and learn about them all you can, dogs and cats are pretty easy, birds are harder, but snakes and lizards or turtles may be totaly unique and could even pose a danger to you, if your not familiar with them. pets need sleep and rest time, they need activity or exercise, they need food, water and warmth, some even require medication at certain times of the day, but all pets need patience and love. Make sure you have emergency telephone numbers, so you can call the owners veterinarian or pet clinic in case you have too, and you may also need to get in contact with the pets owner, so don't forget the telehone number where they can be reached at.

There is computer software that is made just for someone who is starting or owns a Pet Sitting business. The software is available for download at this website address: http://www.rb59.com/pet-sitting-software

By Robert W. Benjamin

Copyright © 2006

You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter on your web site as long as it is reprinted in its entirety and without modification except for formatting needs or grammar corrections.




Bearded dragon facts and care: Feeding

Saturday, June 9, 2012

Rabbit Hutch Supplies - 3 Details You Must Have for Your Rabbit Hutch


It is important to look at rabbit supplies if you are wanting to keep rabbits. One of the things you definitely want to have is a rabbit hutch. If having more than one rabbit is in your sights, then you may need to have a hutch with separators or more than one hutch as oftentimes rabbits don't get along very well. I'm going to provide you with three rabbit hutch supplies you need to have to take care of your rabbits.

Shelter for Your Rabbit

A rabbit cage, or "Hutch", is the first thing that you're going to have to have as your rabbit needs a place to live. There is a huge selection of different types of rabbit cages you can buy, anywhere from small ones to condominium size. It all depends on how many rabbits you have as well as the space you have, as to what type of rabbit cage you want to buy.

Waterers

Probably one of the most important things that you need for your rabbit hutch, is a watering system. Water is the most fundamental element to creature lives to survive so you will need to give it this. You can find a lot of different types of watering systems on the market today, some are automated which makes the task of watering your rabbits a lot easier. If you have a bunch of rabbits that you're raising for food, then having an automated water supply could be a real bonus for you and make your life a lot easier. One of the most frequently used and common types of watering devices is the simple type that straps to the outside of the cage with a metal tube that comes out of the bottom. The ones with a tube coming out of the bottom are the ones I always used as a kid growing up raising rabbits.

Rabbit Feeders

Food is the last element that your rabbit needs to survive, so I believe with that said a rabbit feeder is in order. Rabbit feeders are just simple contraptions that sit on the outside of the cage, with an access hole for the rabbit to stick its head in and eat. The other option you could choose besides putting on one of these outside feeders is to place just a normal bowl on the inside of the cage, but this could turn out really messy. Rabbit feeders on the outside of the hutch are always the best option.



Click here for more information


Healthy Hermit Crabs - Hermit Crab Care Made Easy

Thursday, May 31, 2012

Choosing The Best Pets For Kids

"Can I have a puppy? Please, oh please, I'll take care of it and look after it and everything"

Just what do you say to your kids when they ask for a pet? It is perfectly true that growing up with a family pet can teach children responsibility and to develop their social skills. Also cultivating good feelings towards pet animals helps kids to develop a sense of self esteem and help them to establish trusting relationships with other human beings. But before you give in to your kid's demands for a pony, rabbit, salamander, kitten, boxer, python, or macaw, there is plenty for you to consider.

The first thing to keep in mind is that no matter how much your kid promises that she or he will be the one to take care of the pet, some if not all of that responsibility will fall upon you. That is an inevitable, inescapable fact. No matter how good the child's intention is, there will be some, and perhaps many, occasions when other things take priority in their minds and the pet is unintentionally neglected. That is, the pet would be neglected if you were not there to step in, because somebody has to.

Secondly a child may sincerely believe that the thing that they most want in the world is a cute little black and white kitten, just like their best friend of the moment has. The child has really convinced themselves that they want a kitten, and a kitten will hold their interest for ever and ever. And so it would, until their new best friend of next week gets a pet lizard which is just sooo cool. So you will want to make absolutely sure that the pet that your child is demanding will be a long term passion, and not just a fleeting interest.

It will be a good idea to discuss the idea with the whole family. How do they feel about yapping dogs, hair shedding Persian cats, squawking parrots? If one of your children is allowed their very own pet hamster, will all of the child's siblings demand a pet of their own too? Does anybody in the family suffer with an allergy that would make sharing their home with a certain animal intolerable?

Is the type of animal your child is asking for suitable for your family, and your family's life style? A dog that needs two trips to the park every single day may not be suitable for a family who is away from the house all day. And no matter how much the child promises that they will walk the dog, there will be times that they will fail to do so, (and times that you may not want them to, after dark for example). Choosing pets for kids is not easy, often the type of pet that they plead for would not be the best match for their age and experience with animals.

You should also consider cost. Not only the cost of acquiring a pet, but more importantly the cost of taking care of it. All animals involve a financial commitment, food, vet bills, pet care products etc . You don't want to acquire a pet for your kid only to find that you don't have the financial means to keep it. Small pets for kids often have less costs involved in looking after them than larger pets do.

There are many other things to consider when choosing pets for kids, but hopefully this short article will have prompted you to think about the fact that buying an animal for a child, is not the same thing as buying a kid a cell phone or a bicycle. Pets are living breathing creatures, they need care, they need commitment, they need love.

Sunday, May 27, 2012

How To Stop Your Cat From Scratching Your Furniture - Forever!

Your cat scratching at your furniture can not only leave you out of pocket but also very frustrated and annoyed at your cat for being such a bad little kitty. Cats need to scratch, it is something that cats instinctively do, not as you may think, in order to sharpen their claws, but to remove the old layers of their nails. 
Do not punish your cat for scratching, or for anything you see as bad cat behavior. Punishment is unlikely to have any beneficial effect whatsoever. Your cat simply will not understand if you try to punish her in any way for something she has done, cats do not relate punishment to the "crime", they are far more likely to relate the punishment to you!
Even cats that are allowed outdoors will sometimes scratch your furniture, although not as often as indoor only cats. Trees are the natural scratching surface for cats, and to a cat that is kept inside the arms and legs of chairs, and other furniture, sure seems like a suitable alternative!
The most common answer to this cat scratching problem is a scratching post or a "cat tree". A great variety of these are available from pet stores and online pet suppliers. They are fairly simple things to construct, but if you do make one yourself, be certain that there are no nails or other sharp things left sticking out to snag your kitty. And make sure that the base is heavy enough, if it falls over your cat will not want to use it again. Cover the post with rope rather than with carpet, the last thing that you want to do is give your cat the message that it is OK for her to scratch carpet!
Ensure that the scratching post or cat tree is tall enough for your cat, cats like to stretch when they scratch it exercises their muscles. Spread cat nip on one of the platforms to make the post even more attractive to your cat, and attach a few toys to the post so that they hang down temptingly.
If you just put a scratching post down in front of your cat, what is she going to make of it? It may look like a good place to scratch and claw, but then she has been mildly admonished for scratching at things. You may have to teach your cat that it is OK to use the post, that it will not upset you, that scratching the post is what you want her to do.
Every time that you see your kitty about to scratch your furniture, pick her up and gently place her in front of the post or on the cat tree. If she decides to use it give her plenty of praise and encouragement. Cover the furniture she scratches with some netting, or aluminum foil. Your cat should soon learn that it is unpleasant to scratch furniture, but great to scratch her post or cat tree.
If your cat is in the habit of scratching wooden furniture, or doorjambs then strong smelling polish, or vinegar are often good deterrents, if you try the vinegar, check that it won't harm the surface of the wood. Some cat owners report that half an orange or lemon place by the problem has good results. Do not remove the disagreeable smells or covering from your furniture until your cat has been using her scratching post or cat tree for about a month.
If your cat is a horizontal scratcher rather than vertical one, in other words she scratches up your carpet or expensive parquet flooring, try persuading her to use a piece of rush matting, tape the matting down to prevent the mat moving.
What ever you do to solve your cat scratching problem, do not even think of declawing, it is barbaric.

Click here for more information

Saturday, May 26, 2012

Pet Bunnies Can Be Great Pets


Pet Rabbits are fun to raise except when you have to go out and take care of them at 10 below zero. Considering this is the exception rather than the rule, we'll assume that, generally speaking, they are fun to raise. Pet rabbits are gentle and inquisitive animals that are basically easy to care for, making them an ideal pet for adults and families with older children. Rabbits are typically anxious and timid animals that frighten easily, not a good pet for small children because they do not know how to be gentle and calm around the rabbit. Pet rabbits are natural property destroyers, so they need plenty of chew toys and digging boxes to keep them occupied. Provide them with cardboard boxes for chewing and a box of shredded newspaper for digging.

Rabbits are smart creatures and with a little time, discipline, and affection they can be easily litter trained and many rabbit owners will allow their rabbits free run of their home, at least for part of the day. Pet rabbits are often allowed the "run of the house" and being inveterate chewers, they often get into trouble by chewing on electrical cords, poisonous house paints, floor mats and rugs. Death by electrocution or serious burns and intestinal impaction respectively are the most frequent consequences of these unsupervised activities. Pet rabbits are not descendants of cottontails - they are not even the same species. Wild rabbits are born with instincts that help them to survive outdoors, but your pet rabbit does not have those instincts.

Pet rabbits are not known for their willingness to take medications. If you have to give your pet rabbit liquid mediation you will need to use a syringe (no needle) or an eye dropper. Pet rabbits are often taken to the vets with anorexia, which may have a number of causes. They can die if the anorexia is left untreated, so it is important to diagnose the condition promptly.

Pet rabbits are prone to being overweight due to their relative sedentary life as domestic pets, compared to their life in the wild. Being overweight puts pressure on the rabbit's heart and joints and may dramatically reduce your pet's lifespan. Pet rabbits are best kept indoors in order to keep them safe from predators and extreme weather. Remember: domesticated rabbits do not have the same natural abilities for survival as their wild relatives. Pet rabbits are domesticated prey animals who are highly sensitive to their environment. The natural curiosity and energy level of young children can create too much stress for most rabbits.

Pet bunnies are usually fine kept in a dry well-ventilated, sheltered corner of the garden or yard. Bunnies prefer a cool environment. They have no way to cool their bodies when it is hot. There must be protection from draughts, wind and rain. Rabbits are clean by nature and will usually use a litter box if one is provided. Most pet rabbits choose a corner of the litter box to designate as their "potty" area.

Pet rabbits are not suited to live in the ‘wild’. The females are constantly pregnant and the males fight with each other, often until one dies. Pet rabbits are also judged at 4-H competitions.

Bonding of pet rabbits simply means introducing another rabbit to your existing rabbit to co-exist with the other. The most important thing in bonding is to first have both rabbits spayed or neutered. Bonding your rabbit with another may take time, however. Territorial feelings can arise and result in aggression.

Pelleted litter is the best product to use for lining the litterbox and is preferred over wood shavings or corn cob. Pelleted litters are nontoxic, so they won't hurt your rabbit if digested and they draw moisture away, which keeps the surface drier and controls odor. Pelleted commercial food is probably the easiest diet to feed your rabbit. If you choose the mix type of foods then take care that the rabbit eats all of it and not just the most tasty bits!

They're easier to take care of than cat/dog, don't need yearly shots, don't make noises when you're gone, are very affectionate/lovable, and can be spade
Click here for more information

Friday, May 25, 2012

8 Ways to Control Dog Fleas

There are numerous products that will kill adult fleas on your dog. However , they vary in the duration of their effects.

1. Flea shampoos, sprays, and powders. Most products will kill any fleas present on your dog at the time of application, but many have no lasting effect - your dog may have more fleas within 24 hours of being treated. When using a flea shampoo, always begin on the dog's head, face, and ears so the fleas won't run for shelter in those hard to reach areas. Be extra careful not to drip any solution in your pet's eyes. Applying the solution with a sponge is helpful. All shampoos should be rinsed thoroughly from the coat.

Some of the newer, more effective sprays can be a valuable part of the overall treatment plan. They kill adult fleas rapidly and are safe enough to use daily, if necessary. Flea sprays containing insect growth regulators (IGR's) are helpful in managing the overall problem because they help to break the flea life cycle. Be sure to read the label when using any of these products, because they might be recommended for once a week application, instead of daily.

Flea powders are easy to use - simply sprinkle on your dog's coat.

2. Flea rinses or dips. These may be effective for four to five days, depending on the product. The rinse is applied after the dog has been shampooed and not rinsed out and left to dry on the dog's coat. You need to dip the entire dog from nose to tail. Follow directions carefully regarding frequency throughout the flea season.

Pet shops and supermarkets sell a huge variety of flea dips and shampoos for your pet. If your dog has only a few fleas, there's no reason why you can't treat him yourself. Make sure to follow the label instructions on whatever product you buy, and pay close attention to age restrictions. Many products are not suitable for young puppies. Never use cat products on dogs.

As with flea shampoos, when using a flea dip, always begin on the dog's head, face, and ears so the fleas won't run for shelter in those hard to reach areas. Be extra careful not to drip any solution in your pet's eyes. Applying the solution with a sponge is helpful.

You might want to take your dog to the veterinarian where either an assistant or a groomer on staff will dip your pet, or take your dog to a grooming shop for flea treatment.

3. Sprays containing flea growth regulators which are called IGR's. These sprays are usually applied weekly and the growth regulators help break the flea's life cycle.

4. Flea collars. Flea collars are an easy, economical, and useful method of flea control when used before you see fleas, but aren't very effective if you already a flea problem. Flea collars are on the dog and working 24 hours per day. However , they are not very effective in climates that are especially conducive to flea reproduction. Many people don't like the smell of insecticidal flea collars or the smell and oily feeling the insecticide leaves on their hands after petting a dog wearing one. But , they are a lot better than nothing!

Many flea collars, such as the Ovitrol Plus or Ovitrol Plus II sold by veterinarians, kill adult fleas and also make flea eggs sterile. These are generally called Egg-Stopper Collars and contain insect growth regulating ingredients, which prevents egg from hatching.

Some dogs are sensitive to flea collars and develop a skin irritation under the collar, so if this happens, you should remove the collar and use another method of flea control.

In addition, there are High Tech Electronic Flea Collars for dogs that emit powerful ultrasonic pulses. They are supposed to be inaudible and harmless to pets and humans but , fleas go crazy!

Do-it-yourself Low Tech Herbal flea collar - effects last approximately one month:

Buy a soft untreated flea collar. Mix 1/2 teaspoon rubbing alcohol, essential oils of 1 drop cedar wood oil, 1 drop lavender, 1 drop citronella, 1 drop thyme oil. Open the contents of four garlic capsules into mixture. Soak flea collar until it has absorbed sufficient mixture soaked through, then let dry.

5. Spot-on products. Advantage® and Frontline® are two brand name products that are applied topically to a small area of the dog's skin and they effectively kill fleas for at least a month. They are purchased in small vials that contain one dose for various sizes of dogs. They kill adult fleas, usually before the flea has the opportunity to bite your dog.

When using some of the new residual topical treatments such as the spray and the liquid applied to the dog's neck, you may find environmental control will become much less a concern. In some cases, treating the dog with these new products will effectively control the environmental problem.

6. The pill. (Program™) This product prevents flea eggs from hatching when administered orally to pets once a month at mealtime. Dogs are fed Program in tablet form. Different tablet sizes and suspension doses are prescribed according to the animal's weight. When an adult female flea bites a Program-treated dog, the flea ingests the active ingredient (lufenuron) which then passes into her eggs and prevents them from hatching. Program is dispensed only through veterinarians. This drug does not kill the adult fleas on your dog, but it does break the flea life cycle by preventing hatching of the next generation of flea eggs. In effect, it kills the next generation of fleas.

A similar product called Sentinel contains both the flea control ingredient and heartworm medication all in one dosage.

7. Natural methods include essential herbal oils, essential fatty acids, garlic, and/or B vitamins tend to make the animal less tasty to fleas. You can supplement with garlic or brewers yeast tablets. Some animals are allergic to brewers yeast, so watch closely the first week or so to make sure the itching doesn't get worse.

8. Flea Combs. Run the comb through your pet's hair and gather a bit of hair and "flea dirt". Daily flea combing may seem like a tedious process, but you can trap some of them in the comb. Be sure to drown them in soapy water, because fleas can jump out of plain water.


Click here for more information

Caring For A Pet Snake

When people think of pets, most of the time "furry" and "cuddly" are adjectives that come to mind. For the owners of pet snakes, however , these words don't really fit. Still, snakes make interesting pets, and can even be lovable - in their own way.

Choosing to own a pet snake should not be a snap decision. Snakes can grow large, eat a lot, and require very specific conditions for staying healthy. Some varieties can even be dangerous to humans. Providing for their needs can be quite expensive. To top it all off, snakes tend to have a long lifespan. For the sake of the snake, don't buy one without being sure you are ready to make the commitment.

All snakes are meat-eaters. Many snake owners keep live mice or rats, which multiply rapidly, as food for their snakes. It is recommended that snakes be fed pre-killed prey animals instead of live ones. Especially if the snake is not real hungry, a live prey animal can inflict injuries to the snake. Many snake enthusiasts order frozen mice for their snakes. Others raise mice and kill them as needed to feed their snakes.

The good part of feeding a snake is that most shouldn't be fed more often than once a week and some can go for several weeks between feedings. The reason is that they don't have to expend any energy creating their own body heat. In fact , if the cage is not warm enough, a snake can't even digest its food.

The enclosure, or cage, for the snake needs to be first of all escape proof. Snakes are escape artists, and don't need a very big opening in order to find a way out. The cage also has to have a source of heat. Because they are cold blooded, snakes must have a variety of temperatures to choose from. This is how they regulate their body heat. For best results, the enclosure should be heated on one side only and thermometers used on both ends. Each snake species has specific needs in terms of heat, and you should find out these needs before getting a snake.

Other needs include a bowl of water, several places to hide, and a floor lining. If you’re on a tight budget, newspaper works well for most snake varieties. It can easily be replaced when soiled. The water should be kept clean, too. Any wastes or uneaten food should be removed quickly. The cage should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected about once a month.

Keeping a pet snake is a responsibility that can also be an adventure. If you are a beginner, you should start with one of the easier snakes to keep. Do a little research, and you will find out that pet snake breeds are generally rated according to how hard they are to keep. In time, you will learn the ins and outs of snake keeping, and can expand your collection to include some of the more exotic types.


Click here for more information

Thursday, May 24, 2012

How to Care For a Ferret : Pet Ferret Cages




How to Care For a Ferret : Pet Ferret Cages

click here for more information

The music of the beaks: Understanding Canaries

Big time symphonists turn their attention to the sounds of thunder, but a lyrical composer listens to bird sounds like that of canaries. I have a flutist friend who keeps canaries in a spare room in his home.

His canaries are called border canaries, the singing kind, all yellow in color. It is only the males that sing with songs as memorable as stashed-away kisses. Not only that, my friend plays his music with his canaries, for they listen and imitate him and sometimes perch on his flute.

Canaries live about ten to fourteen years and can reproduce twice a year. My flutist friend's canaries, now about twenty in number, descended from two canaries, since just a few years back.

He says their daily upkeep doesn't cost much and they are clean birds. Still, the most important thing a bird lover can do is to keep his canary cages or the room used as aviary sparkling clean. Canaries, as all birds, are more susceptible to diseases in a dirty environment.

Direct exposure to sun, too much outside noise, polluted air, sudden temperature changes, bad diet, lack of exercise can make canaries seriously ill. Canaries should never be exposed to damp and drafty conditions since they can develop asthma and rheumatism. Should a canary become ill, the best bet is to consult a veterinarian.

These birds are accident prone, also. Bookshelves, wastebaskets, couches and big upholstered armchairs can serve as death-traps. Canaries are known to fly into mirrors and windows and sustain concussions and broken limbs, too. If a spare room is to be made into an aviary, the furniture should consist of simple tables without drawers and wooden chairs.

Canaries have a light skeleton as they can fly and dart across a room, and they need large cages and space to fly. As most birds, they have a very high rate of metabolism that burns up energy during flight.

What a canary eats is important for its health. The seeds have to be fresh and drinking water clean. Canaries drink the water they bathe in. So , the saucers they bathe in should contain the same quality of water in their water bottles. Non-carbonated mineral water is best. Tap water, if chlorinated, is not good for any bird.

A proper diet for a canary consists of birdseed mixture, organic fruits and vegetable greens, spray millet, cuttlebone or mineral stone, and once in a while, sprouts, fresh twigs, and hard-boiled egg yolk with low-fat cottage cheese. Pesticide sprayed greens, fruit pits, and the skin of an avocado act like poisons for a canary.

The eyes of a canary work independently of each other, and through the use of its eyes, a canary orients itself to its environs. The vision of a canary draws almost a full circle of 320 degrees.

Canaries also possess an acute hearing. The structure of a canary's ear is akin to that of mammal, but without a flap. Otherwise, how else would the bird imitate a flute?

It is fun to watch canaries in their daily life. They preen themselves, and out of friendship, each other. In addition , the courting birds dance and feed each other. When the birds are relaxed and happy, they sit on one leg and may puff their plumage.

When a canary sleeps, it partially buries its head in its back and fluffs up its feathers. Canaries sleep through the night and are awake at daytime, but a relaxed and non-threatened bird may take short naps during daytime.

Male canaries may sing as they fly over what they consider to be their territory. They also sing while attracting the female. The female may sing too; although the female bird has the necessary organs for singing, its voice is so soft that it is not heard.

When two canaries threaten each other, they raise their beaks and flap their wings. In general, however , canaries in a colony live peacefully together.

All birds hate to be seized, especially because human fingers hurt their feathers. If a canary escapes from its cage, it is better to cajole it back rather than to try grasping it.

Keeping a single male canary alone in a cage is not fair to the bird, no matter how good a care its owner might give him. A pair of canaries and a very large cage is the least you can do, if you want canaries in your life.

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Cat Training - The Meows And The Purrs


A Cat 'meows'. Yes it sounds so good but if it meows loudly and continuously, then the same sound becomes irritating. What do you think the reason can be? Is it hungry?

YES and NO

Yes, hungry, it can be, but apart from this there can many other reasons, why it is 'meowing'. The reason may be anything it may be because it is just bored, or can be because it has suffering from some kind of discomfort or has some medical problem.

What should you do it she keeps meowing? Offer her milk...

No! You should not offer her any food when it is incessantly meowing, as it will think that this as a kind of reward and would keep meowing... This will increase its bad behavior and would affect the relationship between you and the cat.

Offer it food, when it stops meowing, this will be registered in its mind, that if it does not meow unnecessarily, it will be rewarded. You will need to get your cat to learn when it is appropriate to meow, when they really need something. You need to see that all the cat needs is always available to it, as far as possible. This would mean your cat will do less meowing.

Cats are usually lazy and would not exercise by themselves. They love to cat nap all day long. You need to set up a playtime and a play area. Keep Strings, ball, catnip items, or simple home made items that your cat will love. See that the items kept are without any sharp edges which might hurt your pet. This will help it get into a good habit of keeping itself occupied while you are busy with something else.

You should spend sometime in a day and preferable keep it same time everyday. A good time would be when you return home from work and you want to relax. It is proved that playing with or just stroking cats helps one relax and keeps blood pressure under control.

Purring is another characteristic of a cat. Purring signifies that the cat is content. Follow this with caution as purring does not always signify that the cat is happy. Cats also purrs if they are ill, sick or dying. Pay close attention to your cat, when it is purring and check for any physical signals which might suggest that it is not feeling well.

If it stops purring, that too signifies that it has some discomfort maybe it may be sick with a virus or something could be making her feel sick. These are signals to suggest you that seek the services of a veterinarian and have your cat examined. Non-purring may also happen when cats get older or maybe the purring is so soft that you are unable to hear them it.

As in humans, emotions play a very important part of a behavior in your cat. Fears, grief, compassion, jealously affect the behavior of your feline friends too.

* As fear is intimating to us so is it for them, it may have a fear of getting hurt or may be afraid of another animal.

* Cat would exhibit grief, when something tragic happens to it like loosing its owner, the same way as we do when we loose our near or dear ones.

* Cats have compassion for other cats.

* Your meowing and purring pet also turns green with jealousy if it has to share its owner, home, toys or food.

It is these emotions, you need to consider, when you are training your cat. It would be disturbed and might resort to excessive meowing and refuse to listen to its master. When they show the signs of being emotional, you need to find what is affecting their behavior.

Are they hurt or are they ill or is it just their bad behavior.

Cats, being emotional, need your attention all the time. You need to observe, if they are satisfied with the location, they are comfortable with other pets or other members of the family and you should always be aware of their actions.

Training a pet is tricky. It is Time and Patience which will help you through. They are to be treated like our children, teach them good behavior and ignore their bad attitude.

Reward your cat for being good. You need to give time to your cat to teach them how to play with toys and other items which you have kept for their playing. Always feed you cat with healthy food; these will ensure good medical condition and happy-content behavior.

Get toys which they would practically like to play with. Do not go in for toys which you would like them to play with.

Love them, Hug them and be kind to them, and you would be able to share the most beautiful relationship.


Click here for more information


Keep Your Pets Healthy

Saturday, May 19, 2012

How to Create Your Own Monster -- are you Spoiling your Pet?

"You've created your own monster, you know", my mother said ominously. My Rex cat, Houdini, had just burrowed his way inside my sweater for the third time that morning, letting out a squeal of indignation when I tried to resist.

Houdini has separation anxiety. But in his tiny little mind, separation means I've been out of his site for at least two minutes. Or I've closed the bathroom door and left him on the other side. Or he hasn't had his ears scratched or his belly rubbed in eons (about ten minutes. ) Houdini follows me everywhere, like the most faithful of hounds, and craves my undivided attention almost as much as his next meal.

If all of this seems annoying, it's not nearly as bad as when the little fellow plunks himself down in front of me and literally tears chunks of his own hair out because I'm not paying attention to him. With Houdini, it's always been easier just to give in.

My husband takes all of this in stride. My mother, who (fortunately for Houdini) only visits now and then, thinks it's the height of absurdity.

Growing up under Mom's roof, I learned that dogs and children should obey, and cats just mind their own business. I adopted my mother's dog training philosophies successfully. Cleo (a fine-looking mastiff and our now-famous website mascot), is a perfect lady. She's a wonderful dog with the gift of self composure and not one to question authority. Cleo would never stoop to the kind of antics that are Houdini's specialty. Besides, she's too big to crawl inside my sweater.

So why does this particular pet behave like a spoiled child? Why do I give in to him? Is it because I forgot to have children? Mom swears that those little squealing sounds he makes don't come from a cat. "He's manipulating you", she tells me. "He's learned how to sound like a baby".

Maybe I've got what I like to call "lap dog syndrome". I'm referring how we treat smaller pets who are easily cuddled and coddled, are highly portable, and who look adorable wearing funny little outfits. Some might call it "empty nest syndrome".

Consider my Grandmother Rosie and her Toy Poodle, Cocoa.

Cocoa arrived long after Rosie's children had grown up and left home. Rosie knitted lots of little sweaters and hats for Cocoa to keep him warm and stylish. She kept a mixture of Coke Syrup and Pepto Bismol on hand to settle Cocoa's nervous stomach. And dog food could never pass his lips, so Grandma cooked fresh chicken for Cocoa every night before sitting down to her own dinner.

We had to spell out "c-o-o-k-i-e" and "P-e-p-t-o B-i-s-m-o-l" around the dog so he wouldn't get over-excited. And Grandpa Henry was obsessed with keeping Cocoa clean. This was one poodle who never had tear stains under his eyes, and whose little "tushy" was spotless.

Bear in mind that we're talking about the late 60's, when treating pets like children wasn't really "mainstream".

Today, it's commonplace. The pet industry is huge, and much of it caters to our desire to spoil our "children". So these days it's easier than ever to create your own monster. Besides bending to your dog's every whim, you can shower her with gourmet treats, dress her to the nines, and offer her a standard of living well above what many of the world's humans aspire to.

Today, Grandma wouldn't have to knit any sweaters herself, and there would be plenty of remedies made expressly for Cocoa's nervous tummy. Grandma wouldn't board her baby when traveling. Instead, she'd hire a professional pet sitter, or take Cocoa with her to a pet friendly hotel. The hotel might even have a dog gift shop, with lots of squeaky toys and delicious "c-o-o-k-i-e-s". And Cocoa would go everywhere with Grandma in his own little dog-sized carrying case, probably made from fine imported leather or snakeskin.

I wonder how many owners of large breeds behave this way? Are there other syndromes out there, like "macho dog syndrome" (a guy thing, no doubt)?

The truth is, all pets start out small and cuddly. No one is completely safe from creating their own monster, large or small. So thank goodness there are enough great resources available for anyone to become a virtual dog training expert. (Or cat, or parrot, or horse... )

I've learned my lesson with Houdini: It's much easier to teach your pet the rules from the start. Puppy training is easier than dog training. And un-creating a monster is a heck of a lot tougher than creating one!

But I'm weak. For now, it's easier just to give in. And besides, it time to rub Houdini's belly...


Click here for more information


How To Select the Best Pet For You

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Tropical Fish And Its Aquarium Maintenance

Tropical fish includes fish around the world living in tropical environments including salt water and fresh water species. They are popular fish in aquariums because of their bright colors. Tropical also refers to tropical climate wherein the climate is warm or moist all throughout the year integrated by abundant vegetation.

Aquarium is an enclosed clear-sided container made of high strength plastic or constructed glass for keeping or raising animals and plants for research and observation. The ecosystem of the species is copied on smaller scale controlling environmental factors.

Tropical fish being put in the aquarium should be properly taken care of by regular monitoring of the fish and aquarium conditions by checking the waters for bacteria, parasite or fungi occurrences.

There are ways on how to determine if the tropical fish are sick.

-Fish scales inspection. Examine for any discoloration, growths or wounds. Scales that is missing is a fighting indication.
-Observation of the fish respiratory rates. Slower or faster rate than normal is a sign of problem.
-Fish eyes clarity checking. Blood or cloudiness should not be present.
-Observation of the fish abnormal behavior such as unusual swimming pattern or sluggishness.
-Veterinarian consultation for any fish abnormalities being observed.

Your aquarium serves as the new habitat of your tropical fish so it should be maintained regularly. The procedures are easy protecting the fish and plants lives.

-Regular checking of the tank to ensure that dying or dead fish is not present.
-Observation of all the fish individually for behavioral patterns familiarization so that it is easier to determine a sick fish in the future.
-Feed your fish with one-day intervals using diet variations.
-Replace the evaporated water on the tank with dechlorinated water.
-Once a week, removed 5 to 10 percent of the tank water replacing it fresh dechlorinated water. Unwanted chemicals in the tank are diluted helping the tanks internal environment similar to tap water.
-Algae scraping from the walls of the tank done once a week.
-Filter pads checking every two weeks cleaning or replacing them if necessary.
-Water testing done every two weeks. Water change is done after one day.
-Ammonia, nitrate, pH levels or nitrite checking done every two weeks.
-Drain off the debris from the gravel done once a month.

Always keep track of the chemical contents of your aquarium and scheduled maintenance.

Click here for more information



Best price saltwater fish: Best website for saltwater fish only from www.petsupplywharehouse.com

Thursday, May 10, 2012

The Best Toys for Your Dogs

Dogs are a major status symbol in American pet-keeping. Every year, over 12 billion dollars have been spent on dog food and veterinary care alone. According to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association’s 2003-2004 Pet Owners’ Survey, more than half of dog owners purchase toys for their dogs.

Playing with toys is not the monopoly of little kids but also pets of different kind. Dogs have their own sets of toys to enjoy during their playing time.

Dogs benefit from these toys, health and training wise. There are dog toys that can strengthen their teeth or build their intelligence especially if they also attend a series of training classes with the experts. Like man, dogs are very sociable. Interaction with their companion or a sibling dog is very important in avoiding behavioral problems in the future.

When buying toys for your dog, you may want to match them with your dog’s needs, demands and even personality. Is your dog the type that enjoys chasing and retrieving games, or chewing, sitting and sprawling? You may want to try experimenting first to find out which toys make your dogs the happiest.

Before going on a toy hunt, take a look at this list of toys that may help you identify the right kind of toy for your dog.

* CHEW TOYS. These are perfect for the dog that likes to chew a lot. Instead of your dog chewing your furniture, why not buy these TOUGH little babies for them. These types of dog toy are usually made of nylon or latex rubber. The "King Kong Toys" are among the popular brands of chew toys. You can experiment by stuffing these toys with peanut butter or cheese spread, freeze them and give them to your dog for hours of licking and chewing fun.

Doggie “potato chips” is also a favorite. These "edible chips" can last to a minimum of an hour to a couple of days. They are available in different shapes like pig ears, snouts, cow knuckles, femurs, hooves and bully sticks. Others are bone-shaped made from a variety of vegetables such as carrots.

Another good toy for your dog’s chewing pleasure is the rawhide. These are non- consumable, mummified skin-like toy that you have to throw away when they get soggy, and give your dog a new one. Some rawhides are basted with a variety of flavorings. Be sure to get the “USA rawhide” with a little flag sticker on the label because these do not contain preservative flavorings that are harmful for your dogs.

SQUEAKY TOYS. For these toys, choose the rubber over the stuffed toys for durability and to avoid synthetic materials. These little noisemakers are good for training your dog’s hunting skills.

RETRIEVING TOYS. These are perfect for the chase-and-retrieve types of dogs. Dogs enjoy these toys because they get to play with you. Frisbees and balls made specifically for this activity, are the best to be used. Your dog will get a good workout and so is your arm.

TUG TOYS. These toys are best for dogs that like to grab hold and never let go. Available in rope-like designs.

BRAIN TEASERS. Best for dogs that is left alone a lot. “Biscuit balls” and “food cubes” are great examples. These toys require the dog to solve types of puzzle in order to get a treat.

Various toys of these forms are available in the market.

1. For Chewers of all Sizes

SQUIRREL DUDE – tough, durable and fun too; this hollow rubber chew toy takes on a new level in innovation; this helps to exercise your dog’s jaw a little more with the four little rubber prongs blocking the hole slightly that the dog has to work a little harder to get the goodies out.

2. Ball Launchers and Throwers (Retrieve Toys)

FRISBEES – is an all-time favorite dog toy especially the soft version; fold to fit in a pocket; comes in blue and orange colors, size six to nine inches, prices at eleven to sixteen dollars.

THE ROUND ORBEE - a tough ball hallowed with ½ inch thick membraney surface and it’s softish; it is flexible, durable, grippy, bouncy, and buoyant and has a peppermint scent; good for sniffing-and-getting-the- ball game; prices at five to twelve dollars depending on the size and form you choose

3. Squeaky Toys

SQUEAKERS – available in packages of ten each; dogs that love to silence squeakers are the best for this toy; excellent as attention and pocket squeaker as well; prices go lower if you buy in packages, from five to three dollars each box/package.

4. Tug Toys

LEATHER TUGS – great for tug-of-war games with your dog; made of high grade leather, 3/8 inches thick, tanned and not-treated; dogs like them a lot especially those with active lifestyle.

THE MONGO FETCH TOY – a chew and tug toy combined in one; the natural rubber bar is vanilla scented; rope running through the center gives you a grip for tug games and the soft tasseled ends are made for exciting action with your dogs; medium to large in size, from five to seven dollars each.

5. Brain Teasers

I CUBE - this is a toy that challenges and develops your dog's intelligence and puzzle solving skills; be sure you are there for supervision; available in junior and jumbo sizes, six to eleven dollars.

DUCK EGG BABY - egg Babies are a plush toy with three squeaker eggs inside; there is an opening on the bottom of the toy so your dog can get the hidden treasures inside; this is a toy that challenges and develops your dog's intelligence and puzzle solving skills too.

Toys are a fun way to enjoy with your dog in a sunny day at the park. But be sure to apply proper safety measures especially when playing with balls, sticks and stones. You do not want to harm them in any way. Remember, this is a dog-eat-dog world! Even as harmless as playing can cause indestructible damage to your dog.

Mihail Fortomas is a teacher of Biology in a High School of Athens Greece. For the dog owner who wants dog health care information - everything for Dog Diseases and Treats, Foods and Diet, visit: http: //1source-body-health. com/dog-health-care. html


Click here for more information

Eliminating Skunk Odor From Your Dog


A skunk’s spray is one of the most unpleasant odors there is to a human’s nose. Putting your dog outside in the yard, hearing a commotion and finding out a skunk has sprayed your pet is not only terrible but also very smelly. A skunk’s spray is yellowy oil, which they spray or mist from up to almost twenty feet away when they feel like they are in danger. Many dogs end up sprayed because they try to defend their property and the skunk usually wins.

The first words of advice are ‘do not bring your dog inside after it has been skunked’ as it will take forever to get the smell out of your house. The skunk odor will permeate anything porous such as beds, sofas, towels, untreated wood and plasterboard. Check your pet’s eyes to see if the skunk got spray in them. If it did your dog’s eyes will appear red. This sometimes causes temporary blindness that usually lasts from ten to fifteen minutes. Rinse your dog’s eyes with a saline solution or use eye-drops for a human or olive oil, to help relieve the eye irritation. Take your pet to the veterinarian if the dogs’ eyes continue to be red or irritated.

The treatment you use on your dog is far more effective if you do it before the skunks spray has had a chance to dry on your pet. The first order of business is putting on old clothes and rubber gloves, that you will not feel bad about, if you throw them away after. Do not shampoo the whole dog, just the area affected, as you do not want the odor spreading onto the rest of your pet. Before you grab the tomato juice, be aware that it will not remove the skunk odor, just mask it.

Here is a concoction that successfully works at eliminating that terrible skunk odor on your pet. In a large open bowl or container, pour in one quart of three percent hydrogen peroxide, one teaspoon of any type of liquid dishwashing soap and one-quarter cup of baking soda or sodium bicarbonate. When mixed together, the mixture foams and this is the best time to use it. Hydrogen peroxide is available in drug stores and some people feel that joy dishwashing detergent works the best. There are commercial skunk deodorizer removers available but they do not always do a good job.

While the mixture is still foaming, wet down the area of the dog that the skunk sprayed. After leaving the lather in the fur up to ten minutes, use tap water to rinse this area thoroughly. Repeat this if necessary. For dogs sprayed in the face by a skunk, very carefully apply the mixture with a cloth, making sure to keep it out of your pets’ eyes, nose and mouth. Make this solution only when you need it and always discard the unused solution, after you mix it together, as it will explode if covered or stored.

If the skunk sprayed your house or fence etc, there are commercial products available to remove the skunk odor. To keep skunks from wanting in your yard, make sure the garbage pails lids fit tightly, do not keep dog food outside and close any spaces that makes a comfortable place for skunks to live, such as under cement steps.


Click here for more information


Furry friends part of family budget